The recommended enclosure is, of course, an Altoids tin. I am not using one for two reasons ...
1) I don't have a punch to make the necessary holes and 2) I have some nice sturdier metal enclosures that I saved from the dumpster at my old job.
In addition to assembling the circuit board, I drilled holes in the enclosure for the three phono jacks that you see in the above photo. For the memory buttons, I am forgoing the ones supplied with the kit and am using some Radio Shack momentary push buttons that I picked up at the Hamfest last Sunday. These are chassis mountable and will go on the enclosure's "top" side.
When all is said and done, the enclosure will be painted a bright yellow to match the PFR3A and I also ordered some decal paper to make my own labels. Yes .... decals. For a $17 kit with a homebrew enclosure - decals are just fine.
I ordered a package of decal paper from DecalPaper.com, and when it comes, I will design and create my own custom decals for this project. Thanks to John AE5X for pointing me to this product from one of his blog posts. Take a look at the video he embedded in his post. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination.
72 de Larry W2LJ
Looks good, but what does it do?
ReplyDeleteIt's a memory keyer.
ReplyDeleteTwelve direct-entry commands
Three easy-to-use, 31 character memories kept in non-volitile memory (EEPROM)
5 - 55 wpm speed range
Iambic A or B, straight key, and Cootie Key modes
Sequenced Mute Line (goes low for receiver or T/R switch)
Default speed and modes stored in non-volitile memory (EEPROM)
Speed entered by command or changed on-the-fly via the paddles
Low power - 1 mA active and 1 uA in sleep mode
Very long battery life (sleep mode when not in use) so no power switch needed
Current speed reported upon command
Operating voltage 3-5 volts
600 Hz sidetone (may be turned off)
Autospacing between characters (may be turned off)
Paddle swap command
Keyed line goes low when active
That's really a great post.. nice one.. i like this post.. PCB Design
ReplyDelete